UKC

190m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
190m. The classic of the crag. This outstanding route follows a superlative line up the great corner. It takes its name from the smooth overlapping slabs reminiscent of the armour on a Roman centurion. The second pitch is sometimes wet but the seeps are normally avoidable, and the penultimate pitch breaks through the first tier of the unlikely looking upper overhangs by some superb moves. Start at the foot of the great corner.
1. 15m 4c Climb the left wall of the corner by an awkward crack, to a fine stance on top of the rib.
2. 35m 5a Traverse into the corner and climb it to a belay on a slab in an overhung bay. A brilliant pitch – the holds just keep coming!
3. 25m 4b Traverse left on to the edge. Climb easy grooves until level with the lip of a big overhang, then step back right on to the lip and move up to a stance.
4. 20m 4b Move back into the corner. Traverse left up across the wall below an overhanging crack and climb the arête on the left to a stance.
5. 40m 4a Climb slabby grooves in the same line past a block, then continue up easier ground to join the Route II traverse.
6. 30m 5a Climb up to the overhang. Move left on to a steep slab, then up and left to another overhang. From a detached flake traverse delicately left on to a big slab. Go easily up right to a stance below the second tier of overhangs.
7. 25m 4c Traverse right for 6m and climb a spiky arête to a bulge. Surmount this, step left into an easy groove to the terrace at the top.
FA D.D.Whillans, R.O.Downes, 30 Aug 1956 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
**** in Ben Nevis, SMC

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , UK Classic Corners , Summer Trip 2014 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Big Routes , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , CUMC First Ascents , BoC Scottish Summer , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Hard Rock 2020 , York University Students path to greatness , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Trad Warrior 2021 , Summer 2021 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Lairig hitlist , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Scottsh Adventures (Shame its not the gorge...) , Big Bunda Boys Badass Bounty , Picos Preparation , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
carr0t 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Epic route. Never too hard, but the exposure is real! The slightes hint of moisture in one or two places, otherwise pristine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Epic route. Never too hard, but the exposure is real! The slightes hint of moisture in one or two places, otherwise pristine.
chigozie 30 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Ledge route is quite a way from the top of Centurion. We left the terrace at the top of Centurion at 2.40pm, and between finding ledge route (a weird looking obelisk) and climbing it, we were at the summit of Carn Dearg at about 4pm.
Show beta
βeta: Ledge route is quite a way from the top of Centurion. We left the terrace at the top of Centurion at 2.40pm, and between finding ledge route (a weird looking obelisk) and climbing it, we were at the summit of Carn Dearg at about 4pm.
higherclimbingwales 29 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I took the first 3 pitches and Dave Percy took the rest. That second pitch is ust awesome. sustained but never desperate. lots of good hand holds and gear. The top 5a pitch looks impossible from the belay but when ou get on it, there's lots of holds and good pro too. 1 tricky move around to the slab for the belay. The top pitch has some dodgy rock on it but is a worthwhile pitch with some 3d climbing. Amazing day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I took the first 3 pitches and Dave Percy took the rest. That second pitch is ust awesome. sustained but never desperate. lots of good hand holds and gear. The top 5a pitch looks impossible from the belay but when ou get on it, there's lots of holds and good pro too. 1 tricky move around to the slab for the belay. The top pitch has some dodgy rock on it but is a worthwhile pitch with some 3d climbing. Amazing day.

Logged Ascents

609 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ben Nevis

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 633 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 91
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moon Jellyfish

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(An Acairsied)

Loading Notifications...