UKC

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Winter Aspirations

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User Date Notes
Root1 3 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Conditions were thin when we did it (2/4/22). Ice screw belay at 60m we then moved up a short distance to the rock just to the right of the ice pitch and got a sound belay. Plus rock runner above the ice pitch just where you move onto the buttress. Then a belay above this with either a peg and large nut belay but we found a great thread where the buttress overlooks the gully just the right of the aforementioned belay. According to the book its 60m to the top from the base off the ice pitch its not its 120m!
Show beta
βeta: Conditions were thin when we did it (2/4/22). Ice screw belay at 60m we then moved up a short distance to the rock just to the right of the ice pitch and got a sound belay. Plus rock runner above the ice pitch just where you move onto the buttress. Then a belay above this with either a peg and large nut belay but we found a great thread where the buttress overlooks the gully just the right of the aforementioned belay. According to the book its 60m to the top from the base off the ice pitch its not its 120m!
Jim Walton 13 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Nice route with excellent snow ice when we did it. Belays were best imagined. I struggled to find anything serious in the middle until the final belay (2 ice screws). Most of the belays were buried axes. The rock is very compact so no amount of digging unearthed a crack, therefore just resulted in buried axe belays. Climbed in 5 pitches from the big blue ice boss in No. 2 gully to the summit plateau.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route with excellent snow ice when we did it. Belays were best imagined. I struggled to find anything serious in the middle until the final belay (2 ice screws). Most of the belays were buried axes. The rock is very compact so no amount of digging unearthed a crack, therefore just resulted in buried axe belays. Climbed in 5 pitches from the big blue ice boss in No. 2 gully to the summit plateau.

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High IV
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High III
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High II/III
Mid II/III
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Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Left Twin

Grade: III 4 ***
(Aonach Mor)

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