Sustained climbing on a strong line up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large corner with two overhangs.1) 5a, 16m. Climb the corner to below the first overhang. Pass this on the right wall. Continue to the overhang at the top of the corner and move right and then up to a small stance.2) 5a, 17m. Above is a vegetated crack. Climb the wall left of the crack, then trend rightwards across the top of the crack and climb to a stance on a pedestal (this is also the second stance of Moonraker). If clear of vegetation, the crack itself can be climbed, lowering the grade of the pitch to 4b.3) 5a, 26m. Make some steep moves up left into a groove which leads to a small cave. Move right out of the cave to a tiny ledge and then climb up left with difficulty to reach a thin crack. Climb the crack and groove above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Cannings, Peter Biven, Mark Springett 06/Apr/1968.
West Country Climbs
South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS
The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
Routes for MCI
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
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