UKC

59m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Sustained climbing on a strong line up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large corner with two overhangs.
1) 5a, 16m. Climb the corner to below the first overhang. Pass this on the right wall. Continue to the overhang at the top of the corner and move right and then up to a small stance.
2) 5a, 17m. Above is a vegetated crack. Climb the wall left of the crack, then trend rightwards across the top of the crack and climb to a stance on a pedestal (this is also the second stance of Moonraker). If clear of vegetation, the crack itself can be climbed, lowering the grade of the pitch to 4b.
3) 5a, 26m. Make some steep moves up left into a groove which leads to a small cave. Move right out of the cave to a tiny ledge and then climb up left with difficulty to reach a thin crack. Climb the crack and groove above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Cannings, Peter Biven, Mark Springett 06/Apr/1968.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Routes for MCI

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High E1
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High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spider's Web

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)

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