Rockfax Description
A mighty-fine sea-level traverse that crosses the terrain from the Great Cave to the headland to the south. The climbing is steep and sustained but fun, and for the most part on huge holds. Start at low tide in the Great Cave. Given a DWS grade of S1. Scramble into the back of the Great Cave and traverse back out steeply on its opposite wall, to gain a tidal ledge (the start of Moonraker). Continue on good holds and pass an overhanging buttress, either very low on barnacles, or high on more difficult ground. Continue along to a steep black wall. Climb up this, then traverse to the Green-Grotto entrance, where you may have to get damp feet to pass across its entrance to the opposite side. Follow the juggy wall all the way along to the much bigger Blue Grotto entrance. Swim 10m across the entrance and climb easily up onto the ridge of the headland. Finish by scrambling up to the coastal footpath which leads back to the car park and descent path to the Great Cave. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Rockfall November 2018 means the traditional finish of swimming to the promontory and scrambling back up to the mainland is no longer possible. All climbers must continue through the Blue Grotto to the far side of the headland. The climbing is excellent 6a+ but harder if the humidity is high. It is fairly straightforward to swim through the cave if the tide isn't running too strongly.

FA. Rusty Baillie, John Cleare (some aid) 31/Dec/1967. FFA. Frank Cannngs, Pete Biven 03/Jan/1968.


Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , West Country Climbs , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Extreme Girdle , Devon DWS progression , University of Exeter must tick's , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Traverses of trady radness , 2020 Vision , I want a Pasty! , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+


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Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Letterbox Wall / Hangover Combo

Grade: E1 5b ***

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