Rockfax Description
Wonderful positions combine with superb rock and climbing to make this sea-level traverse one of the coastline's best deep water solos. As described here, the majority of the climbing is above deep water and the crux is very low. The route is too long to describe in great detail, so easily definable sections are used. In all it gives around 250m of climbing.
1) From the ledges in the Great Cave, traverse rightwards, then cross a tricky corner. Drop down, then gradually rise, to drop down again onto the colourful 'Rainbow' wall. Traverse this wall on good, but spaced pockets, then drop down and strenuously exit the wall to gain a low resting position under the Pink Block. © Rockfax
FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 10.1973 (8pts)<br>FFA. Nick White 9.1991 (entire traverse) 15/Oct/1973.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Hard water , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Girdle , Devon DWS progression , World Class Britain & Ireland , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , South West Coast Traversing ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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plant_based_tommo | 11 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished | βeta? | |
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βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished |
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Grade: 7a+ S1 ***
(Berry Head Quarry)