Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.


Rockfax Description
Wonderful positions combine with superb rock and climbing to make this sea-level traverse one of the coastline's best deep water solos. As described here, the majority of the climbing is above deep water and the crux is very low. The route is too long to describe in great detail, so easily definable sections are used. In all it gives around 250m of climbing.
1) From the ledges in the Great Cave, traverse rightwards, then cross a tricky corner. Drop down, then gradually rise, to drop down again onto the colourful 'Rainbow' wall. Traverse this wall on good, but spaced pockets, then drop down and strenuously exit the wall to gain a low resting position under the Pink Block. © Rockfax

FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 10.1973 (8pts)<br>FFA. Nick White 9.1991 (entire traverse) 15/Oct/1973.


Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Hard water , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Girdle , Devon DWS progression , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , South England DWS Dreams


User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished
Show beta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished

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Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
How the Mighty Fall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Anstey's Cove)

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