Rockfax Description
Wonderful positions combine with superb rock and climbing to make this sea-level traverse one of the coastline's best deep water solos. As described here, the majority of the climbing is above deep water and the crux is very low. The route is too long to describe in great detail, so easily definable sections are used. In all it gives around 250m of climbing.
1) From the ledges in the Great Cave, traverse rightwards, then cross a tricky corner. Drop down, then gradually rise, to drop down again onto the colourful 'Rainbow' wall. Traverse this wall on good, but spaced pockets, then drop down and strenuously exit the wall to gain a low resting position under the Pink Block. © Rockfax

FA. Andy McFarlane, Deryck Ball 10.1973 (8pts)<br>FFA. Nick White 9.1991 (entire traverse) 15/Oct/1973.


Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Hard water , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Girdle , Devon DWS progression , World Class Britain & Ireland , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , South England DWS Dreams


User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished
Show beta
βeta: footholds on crux pitch are getting a touch polished

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Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Cauldron

Grade: 7a+ S0 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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