Although a linking pitch, this inventive section of climbing allows the magnificent lower section of Moonraker to be connected to the wild headwall of Dreadnought. 1) 5a, 27m. (Pitch 1 of Moonraker). Make a diagonal traverse up right past a peg to a slight rib, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.2) 5b, 24m. Climb the corner above the stance to its top (as for Moonraker). Move right into a wide crack/chimney, exit this right and move down to a ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge climb steeply to another good ledge.3) 5b, 23m. (Pitch 3 of Dreadnought). Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax
FA. F.Cannings, P.Littlejohn, P.Biven 05/Apr/1969.
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Grade: E1 5a ***
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