UKC

74m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Although a linking pitch, this inventive section of climbing allows the magnificent lower section of Moonraker to be connected to the wild headwall of Dreadnought.
1) 5a, 27m. (Pitch 1 of Moonraker). Make a diagonal traverse up right past a peg to a slight rib, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.
2) 5b, 24m. Climb the corner above the stance to its top (as for Moonraker). Move right into a wide crack/chimney, exit this right and move down to a ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge climb steeply to another good ledge.
3) 5b, 23m. (Pitch 3 of Dreadnought). Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

FA. F.Cannings, P.Littlejohn, P.Biven 05/Apr/1969.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

38 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 57 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gargantua

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...