UKC

57m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. If done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belay on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aviation/Rhinoceros

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Haytor)

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