60m, 2 pitches. A fine adventure route which gradually evolves from nervy quarried rock terrain into naturally weathered limestone climbing. Thoroughly checked over in 2018, with all old ironmongery and tat stripped and replaced (where req'd) and good stainless pegs installed on the P1 belay. The line is sadly prone to dirt & vegetation build up over time, which in particular can cover & fill important shotholes - latest abseil check/tidy-up Aug 2023. Brown & blue tricams are useful on P1 shotholes, inverted nuts can substitute. Recent checks have cleared obviously loose rock, but care is still required with any suspect blocks/holds. The 'yellow rurties' and other lichens can disconcertingly reduce friction, wait for dry conditions. The nervous traverse on P1 (no novices - 2nd should be confident at HVS) is best taken on the higher line, giving access to a wire placement half way along (plus a small hole which takes a black tricam, if possessed...) - good ropework and several long slings are required to account for that traverse. Belay options at the top are to rope off the fence or, slightly nearer, fix to a couple of old quarry bolts/chains set back down right at the top. (A peg at the top of the Dirt Eater tower is a reasonable placement, but in cracked rock, hence use as a backup only).

FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Hammond 19/Apr/1970.

Ticklists

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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