The soaring narrow corner on the right side of the face is a serious climb that requires lots of large gear on its top pitch, plus nerve and skill to deal with the rock and vegetation on the first. Start at an awkward stance directly beneath the corner reached via a scramble up a grassy ramp and chimney.1) 5b, 26m. Pass a low bulge, peg, and continue to another bulge at 12m. Move around the bulge and climb the corner above past a peg to two more pegs. Continue up the corner passing a useful large cam-notch to a stance and belay where the corner lies back. Old pegs, nut and large cams.2) 5a, 22m. The corner now starts to overhang but is well protected with large cams and nuts. There is some loose material just before the top. © Rockfax
UK Extreme Corners
South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
South West in Extremis
E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Long Quarry Point)
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