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Rockfax Description
The soaring corner-line on the right side of the face is a serious climb that requires lots of large gear on its top pitch, plus nerve and skill to deal with the rock and vegetation on the first. Start at an awkward stance directly beneath the corner reached via a scramble up a grassy ramp and chimney.
1) 5b, 26m. Pass a low bulge, peg, and continue to another bulge at 12m. Move around the bulge and climb the corner above past a peg to two more pegs. Continue up the corner passing a useful large cam-notch to a stance and belay where the corner lies back. Old pegs, nut and large cams.
2) 5a, 22m. The corner now starts to overhang but is well protected with large cams and nuts. A recent rockfall has left some loose material just before the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Extreme Corners, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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User Date Notes
Misha 26 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Recommend at least two sets of cams up to big blue and one 4. Triples of gold and big blue, a 5 and perhaps another 4 advisable (don’t need a 5 for P1 but a 4 is handy for the belay).
 
Show beta
βeta: Recommend at least two sets of cams up to big blue and one 4. Triples of gold and big blue, a 5 and perhaps another 4 advisable (don’t need a 5 for P1 but a 4 is handy for the belay).

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sacre Coeur Direct

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Blackchurch)