UKC Logbook - 'The Verger'

Rockfax Description
A big, committing climb right up the middle of the cliff. A very serious climb even when clean and dry. Start just left of the massive rubble heap, below a widening crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up steep grass to the crack. Climb the crack, which is thin to start, to a stance on the left at a large ledge.
2) 4c, 16m. Poor rock. Climb the corner on the left and work back right to a stance on a ledge next to the arete.
3) 5a, 45m. Move right, around the arete, to a vertical crack and take this to its end. Move up the wall above until it is possible to traverse leftwards to the arete. Climb the long slabby edge of the arete with little protection to the top. A serious pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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User	Date		Notes
leadmat	4 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Unless you're in a crack system, the gear is poor and/or spaced. The belays are all reasonable, but the fixed gear on belay two is poor. If you don't confidently lead in the low extremes this is best avoided. There is little margin for error.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Unless you're in a crack system, the gear is poor and/or spaced. The belays are all reasonable, but the fixed gear on belay two is poor. If you don't confidently lead in the low extremes this is best avoided. There is little margin for error.
HappyTrundler	26 Aug, 2012	Show βeta βeta: For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...