UKC

Rockfax Description
A big, committing climb right up the middle of the cliff. A very serious climb even when clean and dry. Start just left of the massive rubble heap, below a widening crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up steep grass to the crack. Climb the crack, which is thin to start, to a stance on the left at a large ledge.
2) 4c, 16m. Poor rock. Climb the corner on the left and work back right to a stance on a ledge next to the arete.
3) 5a, 45m. Move right, around the arete, to a vertical crack and take this to its end. Move up the wall above until it is possible to traverse leftwards to the arete. Climb the long slabby edge of the arete with little protection to the top. A serious pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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User Date Notes
leadmat 4 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Unless you're in a crack system, the gear is poor and/or spaced. The belays are all reasonable, but the fixed gear on belay two is poor. If you don't confidently lead in the low extremes this is best avoided. There is little margin for error.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unless you're in a crack system, the gear is poor and/or spaced. The belays are all reasonable, but the fixed gear on belay two is poor. If you don't confidently lead in the low extremes this is best avoided. There is little margin for error.
HappyTrundler 26 Aug, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For me, a very demanding lead, mentally, no hard moves, just a constant unease about either poor gear and/or poor rock. Almost every hold seemed to move and creak. First pitch is ok, quite good gear and a good belay in the base of the crack far left of the chossy ledge. Second pitch, easy moves, no gear past the top of the corner crack. Third pitch, after the crack, very runout with dubious gear and creaking holds, as you get higher on the arete there are more gear placements than I expected, and some, quite good. Overall it was a thrilling, intense, absorbing, scary and satisfying climb, and above all a memory that will stand the test of time...I wouldn't want to lead it again though...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackchurch

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hawaiian Pipeline

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Baggy Point)

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