Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
Dorset's hardest sport route. Start up Infinite Gravity until level with the 10th bolt, swing out left past a large hanging spike and underneath a big roof to gain the bottom of the hanging orange wall that forms the other side of the huge ship's prow. Climb this with hard moves on pockets to join the Laughing Arthur roof crack half way along. Finish rightwards along this to the belay at the end of Laughing Arthur pitch 2. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Hickish 15/Sep/2011.
Ticklists
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , UK 8a and up , Routes , Swanage Sport Routes
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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
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