UKC Logbook - 'Polaris'

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the faultline and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto the slabby belay ledge above a huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © Rockfax

FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage

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User	Date		Notes
Ellis Bird	8 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020.
Show beta βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020.
Andy Reeve	14 Aug, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank.