Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

37m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A mighty challenge tackling the triple-roof-stack head on is the hardest roof at Swanage. It is well protected.
1) 6c, 12m. Climb to the roof and contort through the right-hand ceiling crack to belay around the lip on threads and wires.
2) 6b, 10m. Cross the next 3m ceiling, past a large jug, into a small corner. Swing up right to a semi-hanging belay.
3) 6a, 15m. Go over the roof and up a groove in the headwall before going left to finish as for Absence Makes the Heart. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Aug/1989.


Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , WideBoyz Crack School , Proper Cracks UK , UK Crack Hitlist


User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 18 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure Martin Crocker and Dave Pickford have both repeated this.
Show beta
βeta: I'm sure Martin Crocker and Dave Pickford have both repeated this.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Naked and Savage

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Blackers Hole)

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