Rockfax Description
A mighty challenge tackling the triple-roof-stack head on is the hardest roof at Swanage. It is well protected.
1) 6c, 12m. Climb to the roof and contort through the right-hand ceiling crack to belay around the lip on threads and wires.
2) 6b, 10m. Cross the next 3m ceiling, past a large jug, into a small corner. Swing up right to a semi-hanging belay.
3) 6a, 15m. Go over the roof and up a groove in the headwall before going left to finish as for Absence Makes the Heart. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 22/Aug/1989.
Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , WideBoyz Crack School , Proper Cracks UK , UK Crack Hitlist , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Climber_Bill | 18 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm sure Martin Crocker and Dave Pickford have both repeated this. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'm sure Martin Crocker and Dave Pickford have both repeated this. |
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Blackers Hole)