UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A beautiful pitch at the grade - great rock, moves and position. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , LSMC to do , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pawel W 23 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. Very good for beginners.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic. Very good for beginners.
mwh 30 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic, but then I like this sort of thing. Where are the 6a slab routes?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, but then I like this sort of thing. Where are the 6a slab routes?
Alan James - Rockfax 23 Jun, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: They were bolted by keen activists who knew nothing of the trad lines and they are now very popular. It doesn't excuse it, and popularity is not always a justification for bolting, but I think it is wrong to say there is plenty of other rock to bolt, certainly at this grade there isn't.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: They were bolted by keen activists who knew nothing of the trad lines and they are now very popular. It doesn't excuse it, and popularity is not always a justification for bolting, but I think it is wrong to say there is plenty of other rock to bolt, certainly at this grade there isn't.
andygb 21 Jun, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Why were routes on this slab bolted? They were climbed with traditional gear and there\'s enough other rock to bolt without retro bolting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why were routes on this slab bolted? They were climbed with traditional gear and there's enough other rock to bolt without retro bolting

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
Votes cast 176
Votes cast 169
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Right-hand Route

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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