UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 20m. From the lower boulder, step across to the left-hand arete of the Broken Trail cherty corner. Climb the left side of the arete to a belay on the slab above.
2) 5b, 15m. Head right, up the headwall to reach a gentle slab above. Climb the slab to a bolt belay where it ends. Walk off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 5c. From lower boulder step across to the left-hand side of arĂȘte of [climb(145713)]. Climb left side of the chert arĂȘte to belay on slab above.
2) 5b. head up right and over head wall to gain gentle slab above. Two bolt belay where it ends. Walk off.

FA. Martin Hallett & Dan Weissmann 06/Oct/2019.

Ticklists

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012, The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game, Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
ceejaysix 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Needs a better description I think - using the topos in the photos, climbed under/to left of the sloping chert band (generally using the chert for right hand/foot and the wall to the left for the left hand/foot with mostly left-handed clipping) and continued on line to the obvious belay; then retreated slightly and did the branch right over the chert onto the small slab then headwall and subsequent top slab and walk-off, the headwall was the hardest couple of moves. Which doesn't fit with the grades - or (perhaps more likely) I was off line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a better description I think - using the topos in the photos, climbed under/to left of the sloping chert band (generally using the chert for right hand/foot and the wall to the left for the left hand/foot with mostly left-handed clipping) and continued on line to the obvious belay; then retreated slightly and did the branch right over the chert onto the small slab then headwall and subsequent top slab and walk-off, the headwall was the hardest couple of moves. Which doesn't fit with the grades - or (perhaps more likely) I was off line.
SimonPaver 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Communication is tricky when on belay as you cannot see each other.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Communication is tricky when on belay as you cannot see each other.

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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Route of Interest

Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)
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