UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 20m. From the lower boulder, step across to the left-hand arete of the Broken Trail cherty corner. Climb the left side of the arete to a belay on the slab above.
2) 5b, 15m. Head right, up the headwall to reach a gentle slab above. Climb the slab to a bolt belay where it ends. Walk off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 5c. From lower boulder step across to the left-hand side of arĂȘte of Broken Trail. Climb left side of the chert arĂȘte to belay on slab above.
2) 5b. head up right and over head wall to gain gentle slab above. Two bolt belay where it ends. Walk off.

FA. Martin Hallett & Dan Weissmann 06/Oct/2019.

Ticklists

The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game , Portland , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pottsy84 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a better description I think - using the topos in the photos, climbed under/to left of the sloping chert band (generally using the chert for right hand/foot and the wall to the left for the left hand/foot with mostly left-handed clipping) and continued on line to the obvious belay; then retreated slightly and did the branch right over the chert onto the small slab then headwall and subsequent top slab and walk-off, the headwall was the hardest couple of moves. Which doesn't fit with the grades - or (perhaps more likely) I was off line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a better description I think - using the topos in the photos, climbed under/to left of the sloping chert band (generally using the chert for right hand/foot and the wall to the left for the left hand/foot with mostly left-handed clipping) and continued on line to the obvious belay; then retreated slightly and did the branch right over the chert onto the small slab then headwall and subsequent top slab and walk-off, the headwall was the hardest couple of moves. Which doesn't fit with the grades - or (perhaps more likely) I was off line.
SimonPaver 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Communication is tricky when on belay as you cannot see each other.
Show beta
βeta: Communication is tricky when on belay as you cannot see each other.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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