UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous, much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this and its right rib to an overhang, pull right and finish via some difficult moves up a thin crack. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 06/May/1995.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland , Gwenland , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
TradRat 14 May Show βeta
βeta: Some sort of bird hanging around third bolt – no visible nest. Was it sitting on eggs? No idea. Tip-toed around it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some sort of bird hanging around third bolt – no visible nest. Was it sitting on eggs? No idea. Tip-toed around it.
salexc 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 24th June 2023 - gulls nesting on the first ledge (by fourth bolt), avoid climbing for a few weeks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 24th June 2023 - gulls nesting on the first ledge (by fourth bolt), avoid climbing for a few weeks!
Paul Sagar 15 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Baby seagull 1/3 the way up! Lots of guano as a result - best to leave this route alone until he’s all grown up (September?)
Show beta
βeta: Baby seagull 1/3 the way up! Lots of guano as a result - best to leave this route alone until he’s all grown up (September?)
ian caton 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Follow the twin bolts, don't climb the groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Follow the twin bolts, don't climb the groove.
Alun 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang.
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang.
Jus 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short.

Logged Ascents

396 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 133 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

Loading Notifications...