Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A tremendous, much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this and its right rib to an overhang, pull right and finish via some difficult moves up a thin crack. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 06/May/1995.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland , Gwenland , Portland Sendathon , Work you fucking piece of shit , Portland scheming
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paul Sagar | 15 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Baby seagull 1/3 the way up! Lots of guano as a result - best to leave this route alone until he’s all grown up (September?) | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Baby seagull 1/3 the way up! Lots of guano as a result - best to leave this route alone until he’s all grown up (September?) |
||||
| ian caton | 18 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Follow the twin bolts, don't climb the groove. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Follow the twin bolts, don't climb the groove. |
||||
| Alun | 20 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang. |
||||
| Tim Broughtonshaw | 3 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang. |
||||
| Jus | 15 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim. |
||||
| John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Buoys will be Buoys
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)