Rockfax Description
Climb the black wall to a series of incredible stuck-on flakes and follow these to the top. A fine pitch on remarkable rock. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 06/May/1995.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Gwenland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , UK Flowstone , Work you fucking piece of shit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| afshapes | 25 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Improbable looking top but totally doable | βeta? | |
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βeta: Improbable looking top but totally doable |
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| FabioM | 15 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Super route. Amazing flowstones. Quite pumpy. It has a big feel to it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super route. Amazing flowstones. Quite pumpy. It has a big feel to it. |
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| viking | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: brilliant route - very atmospheric and nice moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: brilliant route - very atmospheric and nice moves |
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| Furzy Sleight | 11 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Yes, very good route, 100% flowstone - approach is hardly like the one to Cloggy is it? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yes, very good route, 100% flowstone - approach is hardly like the one to Cloggy is it? |
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| Phil Murray | 25 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route, glad i read the comments here first! I was also feeling defeated at the crux but had faith and got the flash! VERY worthwhile if you like flowstone that isn't polished (yet). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route, glad i read the comments here first! I was also feeling defeated at the crux but had faith and got the flash! VERY worthwhile if you like flowstone that isn't polished (yet). |
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| Sami Mandeel | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: I'd say it's probably more straightforward approaching this from Blacknor South. It may still be worth wearing trousers as there are plenty of nettles and brambles about. Great climb on good quality flowstone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd say it's probably more straightforward approaching this from Blacknor South. It may still be worth wearing trousers as there are plenty of nettles and brambles about. Great climb on good quality flowstone. |
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| Wilbur | 22 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: You HAVE to do this route - it's a bit of an effort to get to but well worth it. Was chuffed with the onsight after contemplating failure on the crux! You can also then do Monsoon Malabar and Pregnant Pause for a quality day's climbing with no-one about... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: You HAVE to do this route - it's a bit of an effort to get to but well worth it. Was chuffed with the onsight after contemplating failure on the crux! You can also then do Monsoon Malabar and Pregnant Pause for a quality day's climbing with no-one about... |
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| Chris Shorter | 2 Oct, 2001 |
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βeta: One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland, only its inaccessibility prevents it from having queues on it. The hardest bits are leaving the belay ledge and pinching up the tufa pipe at the top; have faith, there are jugs above! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland, only its inaccessibility prevents it from having queues on it. The hardest bits are leaving the belay ledge and pinching up the tufa pipe at the top; have faith, there are jugs above! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Fear's Younger Brother
Grade: 6a ***
(Blacknor Far South)