UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous pitch which follows another series of stuck-on flakes to the right of Go With the Flow, but at a higher level of difficulty. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , Portland , Gwenland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
stow 22 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: easy top half.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy top half.
John Alcock 7 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant new addition on beautiful unpolished rock. Very low in the grade. Could make a good first 6c plus on-sight
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant new addition on beautiful unpolished rock. Very low in the grade. Could make a good first 6c plus on-sight

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Turned to Stone

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Blacknor South)

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