UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A popular line with good moves and rock. Start as for Burning Skies. Move up the lower wall and climb directly up the wall above to a technical finale. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 18/Apr/1999.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Gwenland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alun 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The problem with this route is that it is too easy to break out right 2/3 of the way up and finish up the Lord Stublock... groove. IMO the routes here are all a little squished together.
Show beta
βeta: The problem with this route is that it is too easy to break out right 2/3 of the way up and finish up the Lord Stublock... groove. IMO the routes here are all a little squished together.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lovely technical crux right where it should be. at the top. and the climbing to get there was superb.
Show beta
βeta: lovely technical crux right where it should be. at the top. and the climbing to get there was superb.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Best Fingers Forward

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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