UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

25m.

Rockfax Description
Takes a parallel line just left of One Fine Day, joining it briefly, before breaking out left on the headwall. Long quickdraws needed to avoid rope-drag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes a parallel line just left of One Fine Day, joining it briefly, before breaking out left on the headwall. Long quickdraws and careful placing needed to avoid rope-drag. May feel adventurous. A long route; tie a knot in the free end of the rope. At the anchors, savour the ‘butterfly moment’.

FA. Mick Ward 20/Oct/2017.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gazmataz 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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