UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

25m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand side of the wall. Start up broken rock and gain the better upper wall. Finish via a long reach or a dynamic move. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
wdhayward 28 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a small fridge sized piece of rock around bolt 2 - potentially had a bolt from that or one of the adjacent routes in it. Tore a chunk out of my knee which needed 5 stitches. Miraculous escape for the belayer. Fair to say we were lucky. Don’t be tempted to scavenge the quickdraw. Zero stars.
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a small fridge sized piece of rock around bolt 2 - potentially had a bolt from that or one of the adjacent routes in it. Tore a chunk out of my knee which needed 5 stitches. Miraculous escape for the belayer. Fair to say we were lucky. Don’t be tempted to scavenge the quickdraw. Zero stars.
Paddy Bos Coe 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 3 holds came off mid way (cricket ball size) on the fryable rock and one large chunk the size of a breeze block came off low down. Sketchy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3 holds came off mid way (cricket ball size) on the fryable rock and one large chunk the size of a breeze block came off low down. Sketchy
Ezy Ryder 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nasty route all the holds fall off just as you touch them it seems that it is all loose. Steer clear of this one unless you particularly enjoy gardening your routes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A nasty route all the holds fall off just as you touch them it seems that it is all loose. Steer clear of this one unless you particularly enjoy gardening your routes.

Logged Ascents

201 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 45 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

Loading Notifications...