19m.
Rockfax Description
Virtually a slab climb, although there is a roof at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 06/Mar/1993.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Blacknor Central Sport Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Duncan Disorderly | 27 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+... |
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| matt perks | 26 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there. |
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| Rin C | 17 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone. |
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Route of Interest
Opposites Attract
Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)