UKC

19m.

Rockfax Description
Virtually a slab climb, although there is a roof at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 06/Mar/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

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User Date Notes
Duncan Disorderly 27 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+...
Show beta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+...
matt perks 26 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there.
Rin C 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Opposites Attract

Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)

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