Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile route up the flared corner/groove. © Rockfax
FA. Gorden Jenkin, Francis Haydn 16/Aug/1998.
Ticklists
Portland , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paul Sagar | 12 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Deck-out potential between second and third bolt. Really ought to have something between them - plenty of solid rock to choose from. Take care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Deck-out potential between second and third bolt. Really ought to have something between them - plenty of solid rock to choose from. Take care. |
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| John Alcock | 31 May, 2006 |
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βeta: It's now cleaned up nicely, though you stillhave to be a little careful with your feet. Good sustained intricate climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's now cleaned up nicely, though you stillhave to be a little careful with your feet. Good sustained intricate climbing. |
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| Ben Stokes | 1 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: I thought it was quite good with some 'entertaining rock'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought it was quite good with some 'entertaining rock'. |
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| matt perks | 29 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Well worth doing. Worth star I thought. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well worth doing. Worth star I thought. |
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| richardh | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: a very good, and now clean route in it's present state. care needed high up, I pulled a chunk out of the break, well worth the effort. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: a very good, and now clean route in it's present state. care needed high up, I pulled a chunk out of the break, well worth the effort. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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The Jewel of the Isle
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Wallsend South)