UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive line up the steep wall to the left of the dominating arete. Start just to the right of the wide crack. Climb up and rightwards into the centre of the wall, then up this to a hard finish. Finishing on the right is 7b and just as good. The lower-off is situated on the ledge above the route. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 11/May/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , The post lockdown local list

Feedback

User Date Notes
Michael James Spring 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: First 7b onsight! Didn't feel like there was a specific crux or hard move, just quite a few technical sequences and fingery pockets, but with some juggy rests thrown in I didn't expect. Finishing out right you just have to keep your cool but the holds are all there. Awesome route with great positions and good quality rock - don't know what all the comments below about the dodgy rock are about, it was just a bit dusty at the start but you quickly move past that.
βeta?
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βeta: First 7b onsight! Didn't feel like there was a specific crux or hard move, just quite a few technical sequences and fingery pockets, but with some juggy rests thrown in I didn't expect. Finishing out right you just have to keep your cool but the holds are all there. Awesome route with great positions and good quality rock - don't know what all the comments below about the dodgy rock are about, it was just a bit dusty at the start but you quickly move past that.
Katia McCrudden 7 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: right variation(7b) Big moves big holds!!... found it rather scary
Show beta
βeta: right variation(7b) Big moves big holds!!... found it rather scary
ericinbristol 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
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βeta: Worked the RH finish - no particularly hard moves but lots of them. Spectacular and a bit intimidating. Some unpleasantly spaced bolting near the top.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the right arete at the top gives grit like moves to finish, whilst looking fondly back at the receding last bolt.
βeta?
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βeta: the right arete at the top gives grit like moves to finish, whilst looking fondly back at the receding last bolt.
marky 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route but a bouldery and reachy finish.More like 7b+.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route but a bouldery and reachy finish.More like 7b+.

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wax Museum

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Coastguard North)

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