Rockfax Description
The biggest arete on the island is a wonderful climb in an eye-catching situation. Start up cracks, then climb the right wall of the arete to some technical moves above a hand ledge to gain the arete itself. Climb to a ledge, then the final section above to a lower-off. Requires 15 quickdraws and the need to extend the first couple to avoid rope-drag. © Rockfax
FA. J.Robertson, Mark Courtier 1993.
A Guide for Progress in Dorset , Natalie's Challenges , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , ULMC Classics , ICAS Climbing Club , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Rock cats getting strong , Spanish crew 2018 , Gwenland , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , 33 By 33 , Work you fucking piece of shit , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , LSMC to do , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Dorset 2-3* 6a's , Blacknor Central Sport Climbs , Portland - 19/06/24 , Portland 6a-6b
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Arpad | 18 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic route. |
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jwbow | 18 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Birds were flying about at the top causing some small rocks to fall - into the belay area | βeta? | |
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βeta: Birds were flying about at the top causing some small rocks to fall - into the belay area |
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rosamayjojo | 28 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: really nice climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: really nice climb |
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mig | 21 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Awkward belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awkward belay |
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Chris Harbour | 5 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Needs more draws than suggested in the old book. Think I used 17 including the 2 in the anchor. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs more draws than suggested in the old book. Think I used 17 including the 2 in the anchor. |
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Mike Roberts | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: A50m rope is 5m too short. Recommend a 60m rope | βeta? | |
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βeta: A50m rope is 5m too short. Recommend a 60m rope |
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Mike Roberts | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Great technical climbing for the grade getting to the arĂȘte with a nice bit of exposure. 50m Rope was 5m too short. Recommend 60m rope | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great technical climbing for the grade getting to the arĂȘte with a nice bit of exposure. 50m Rope was 5m too short. Recommend 60m rope |
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Nev Hallam | 27 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Great route, Well wortha climb. nice view around the arete! Deserves all of the stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, Well wortha climb. nice view around the arete! Deserves all of the stars. |
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a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: great climb. thought the top was a tad hard for the grade. felt quite exposed. one of those days maybe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: great climb. thought the top was a tad hard for the grade. felt quite exposed. one of those days maybe. |
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dycotiles | 29 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Amazing route, appropriate foodwork saves the pump! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing route, appropriate foodwork saves the pump! |
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Wilbur | 25 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Absolute class. Not really pumpy.. i thought it might have been called PP as it took me 9 months or so to summon up the courage to get on this line! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute class. Not really pumpy.. i thought it might have been called PP as it took me 9 months or so to summon up the courage to get on this line! |
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JimR | 19 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Many thanks guys, called that cos it was the last route I did before my 3rd daughter was born .. I was forced to stop climbing for a while ;-( | βeta? | |
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βeta: Many thanks guys, called that cos it was the last route I did before my 3rd daughter was born .. I was forced to stop climbing for a while ;-( |
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nick w | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: wicked route take beers for the top ledge and enjoy the view! | βeta? | |
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βeta: wicked route take beers for the top ledge and enjoy the view! |
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Morgan Woods | 5 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: quite committing for a sports route and it seems quite hard all the way.....i would deduct a star for all the sand crap at the bottom. | βeta? | |
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βeta: quite committing for a sports route and it seems quite hard all the way.....i would deduct a star for all the sand crap at the bottom. |
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Phil Murray | 26 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Amazing position, great route. Didn't quite get the flash (left or right at the top????), so a good excuse to go back and get on it again! :0) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing position, great route. Didn't quite get the flash (left or right at the top????), so a good excuse to go back and get on it again! :0) |
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Jus | 22 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Did it years ago, but unlike many easy sport routes, I can remember it well. Must do it again soon! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did it years ago, but unlike many easy sport routes, I can remember it well. Must do it again soon! |
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Tim Broughtonshaw | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome, and atmospheric route. Feels like it deserves an Extreme tick. Make sure you wear trousers on the way over as the path is covered with nettles. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome, and atmospheric route. Feels like it deserves an Extreme tick. Make sure you wear trousers on the way over as the path is covered with nettles. |
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Furzy Sleight | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Didnt say it bothered me did i? It was supposed to be a compliment as most sports route lack the 'character' that you often get on a trad route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didnt say it bothered me did i? It was supposed to be a compliment as most sports route lack the 'character' that you often get on a trad route. |
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Wilbur | 27 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: If it bothers you why not just climb it with trad gear? | βeta? | |
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βeta: If it bothers you why not just climb it with trad gear? |
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Furzy Sleight | 27 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Feels like a classic trad route pretending to be a sports route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Feels like a classic trad route pretending to be a sports route |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)