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26m.

Rockfax Description
The biggest arete on the island is a wonderful climb in an eye-catching situation. Start up cracks, then climb the right wall of the arete to some technical moves above a hand ledge to gain the arete itself. Climb to a ledge, then the final section above to a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. J.Robertson, Mark Courtier 1993.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset, Natalie's Challenges, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, ULMC Classics, ICAS Climbing Club, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland, Rock cats getting strong, Spanish crew 2018, Gwenland, Portland Trip, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Olympian (6's, max stars)

Feedback

User Date Notes
jwbow 18 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Birds were flying about at the top causing some small rocks to fall - into the belay area
βeta?
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βeta: Birds were flying about at the top causing some small rocks to fall - into the belay area
rosamayjojo 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: really nice climb
βeta?
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βeta: really nice climb
Miguel Dolton 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward belay
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βeta: Awkward belay
Chris Harbour 5 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needs more draws than suggested in the old book. Think I used 17 including the 2 in the anchor.
βeta?
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βeta: Needs more draws than suggested in the old book. Think I used 17 including the 2 in the anchor.
Mike Roberts 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A50m rope is 5m too short. Recommend a 60m rope
βeta?
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βeta: A50m rope is 5m too short. Recommend a 60m rope
Mike Roberts 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great technical climbing for the grade getting to the arĂȘte with a nice bit of exposure. 50m Rope was 5m too short. Recommend 60m rope
 
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βeta: Great technical climbing for the grade getting to the arĂȘte with a nice bit of exposure. 50m Rope was 5m too short. Recommend 60m rope
Nev Hallam 27 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, Well wortha climb. nice view around the arete! Deserves all of the stars.
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βeta: Great route, Well wortha climb. nice view around the arete! Deserves all of the stars.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: great climb. thought the top was a tad hard for the grade. felt quite exposed. one of those days maybe.
βeta?
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βeta: great climb. thought the top was a tad hard for the grade. felt quite exposed. one of those days maybe.
dycotiles 29 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route, appropriate foodwork saves the pump!
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βeta: Amazing route, appropriate foodwork saves the pump!
Wilbur 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute class. Not really pumpy.. i thought it might have been called PP as it took me 9 months or so to summon up the courage to get on this line!
βeta?
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βeta: Absolute class. Not really pumpy.. i thought it might have been called PP as it took me 9 months or so to summon up the courage to get on this line!
JimR 19 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Many thanks guys, called that cos it was the last route I did before my 3rd daughter was born .. I was forced to stop climbing for a while ;-(
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βeta: Many thanks guys, called that cos it was the last route I did before my 3rd daughter was born .. I was forced to stop climbing for a while ;-(
nick w 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: wicked route take beers for the top ledge and enjoy the view!
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βeta: wicked route take beers for the top ledge and enjoy the view!
Morgan Woods 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: quite committing for a sports route and it seems quite hard all the way.....i would deduct a star for all the sand crap at the bottom.
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βeta: quite committing for a sports route and it seems quite hard all the way.....i would deduct a star for all the sand crap at the bottom.
Phil Murray 26 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing position, great route. Didn't quite get the flash (left or right at the top????), so a good excuse to go back and get on it again! :0)
βeta?
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βeta: Amazing position, great route. Didn't quite get the flash (left or right at the top????), so a good excuse to go back and get on it again! :0)
Jus 22 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did it years ago, but unlike many easy sport routes, I can remember it well. Must do it again soon!
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βeta: Did it years ago, but unlike many easy sport routes, I can remember it well. Must do it again soon!
Tim Broughtonshaw 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome, and atmospheric route. Feels like it deserves an Extreme tick. Make sure you wear trousers on the way over as the path is covered with nettles.
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome, and atmospheric route. Feels like it deserves an Extreme tick. Make sure you wear trousers on the way over as the path is covered with nettles.
Furzy Sleight 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Didnt say it bothered me did i? It was supposed to be a compliment as most sports route lack the 'character' that you often get on a trad route.
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βeta: Didnt say it bothered me did i? It was supposed to be a compliment as most sports route lack the 'character' that you often get on a trad route.
Wilbur 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If it bothers you why not just climb it with trad gear?
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βeta: If it bothers you why not just climb it with trad gear?
Furzy Sleight 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Feels like a classic trad route pretending to be a sports route
βeta?
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βeta: Feels like a classic trad route pretending to be a sports route

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 195
Votes cast 199
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)