UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A good crux move. Clip the bolt on the headwall and then move left immediately. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes Mar/1997.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
brices 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two bolts in poor condition in bottom half. One old rusty ring bolt and one half eroded out of the wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two bolts in poor condition in bottom half. One old rusty ring bolt and one half eroded out of the wall.
Climber_Bill 26 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I accept the bottom section is a bit crispy, bit this will clean up over time. After that though the rock gets much better. The crux is straight up from the bolt on the headwall regardless of what the guide says and then over the roof to the belay. Basically, a good route which needs more traffic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I accept the bottom section is a bit crispy, bit this will clean up over time. After that though the rock gets much better. The crux is straight up from the bolt on the headwall regardless of what the guide says and then over the roof to the belay. Basically, a good route which needs more traffic.
Rin C 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: While the cat's away ... leave this heap of choss alone; crumbly and an unbelievably confusing line at the top - the description says goes left and the line says goes right... go figure, but leave well alone!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: While the cat's away ... leave this heap of choss alone; crumbly and an unbelievably confusing line at the top - the description says goes left and the line says goes right... go figure, but leave well alone!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Animal Magnetism

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)

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