Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A quality eliminate with multiple cruxes. Climb The Strobolising Scyphostoma to a good hold at 4m, reach right and move up to a roof. Dyno up left to a flake then move up a scoop to the final overhangs. Finish through the bulges with a blind slap to gain the top jug directly above the belay! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Low in the grade. A super quality eliminate providing multiple entertaining cruxes on lovely rock, 2.5m overhanging! Start up The Strobolising Scyphostoma to the jug at 4m, reach right and balance up the blank face to the roofline. A powerful crux dyno leftwards gains a big flake followed by a pleasant white scoop leading straight to the final overhangs. Launch directly through the bulges with a blind slap to gain the top jug directly above the belay!
FA. Pete Oxley 03/May/2013.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Tessellations
Grade: 7b ***
(The Promenade)