UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Steep and varied climbing. A hard move to gain the roof is followed by a pleasant groove then a taxing finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 26/Mar/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: still think there are many 7a+ routes on the isle and else where that are easier than this one but I'm a shortie (did it 1st red point)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: still think there are many 7a+ routes on the isle and else where that are easier than this one but I'm a shortie (did it 1st red point)
John Alcock 4 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant varied route..with no chalk on it quite hard to on-sight. The move to the roof is a bitch if you're short, but even if I'd got it first go I'd still have blown the finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant varied route..with no chalk on it quite hard to on-sight. The move to the roof is a bitch if you're short, but even if I'd got it first go I'd still have blown the finish
Alan James - Rockfax 3 Apr, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The finish is probably where most attempts may fail. The actual line is left of the obvious direct line past a pocket to the lower-off.
Show beta
βeta: The finish is probably where most attempts may fail. The actual line is left of the obvious direct line past a pocket to the lower-off.

Logged Ascents

113 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pump Hitler

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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