Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Steep and varied climbing. A hard move to gain the roof is followed by a pleasant groove then a taxing finish. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 26/Mar/1989.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: still think there are many 7a+ routes on the isle and else where that are easier than this one but I'm a shortie (did it 1st red point) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: still think there are many 7a+ routes on the isle and else where that are easier than this one but I'm a shortie (did it 1st red point) |
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| John Alcock | 4 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant varied route..with no chalk on it quite hard to on-sight. The move to the roof is a bitch if you're short, but even if I'd got it first go I'd still have blown the finish | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant varied route..with no chalk on it quite hard to on-sight. The move to the roof is a bitch if you're short, but even if I'd got it first go I'd still have blown the finish |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 3 Apr, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: The finish is probably where most attempts may fail. The actual line is left of the obvious direct line past a pocket to the lower-off. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The finish is probably where most attempts may fail. The actual line is left of the obvious direct line past a pocket to the lower-off. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Troll Team Special
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)