UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A highly-rated outing up the juggy bulge and balancy upper wall. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 19/May/1989.

Ticklists

Natalie's Challenges , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian)

Feedback

User Date Notes
J1_TOV 17 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Went left at the start off the conglomerate, rolling up to a crimp, as opposed to using the big holds out right. Seemed v punchy at 6c.
Show beta
βeta: Went left at the start off the conglomerate, rolling up to a crimp, as opposed to using the big holds out right. Seemed v punchy at 6c.
Jus 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great off-balancy moves in the groove!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great off-balancy moves in the groove!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Downtown Julie Brown

Grade: 6c ***
(Blacknor North)

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