UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A direct and fingery testpiece. Keep right at the overlap. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 26/Mar/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 25 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wtf is the Bolting on this before the pre crux rest? Needs a new bolt to replace the old rusty one
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wtf is the Bolting on this before the pre crux rest? Needs a new bolt to replace the old rusty one
Dandan 3 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don\'t need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i\'m guessing some people miss it.
Show beta
βeta: Crux move at the overlap can be done using a shallow undercut for the left hand so that you don't need to lunge for the greasy holds above and can do the move static. From the small central flake/crack undercut with the left hand, reach the right hand up to the shallow pocket above you to the right (finding a thumb catch helps). Get both feet on the pair of dark/greasy footholds either side of the crack line. Reach left hand under the overhanging block to your left and find the undercut. Step right foot up and through to tiny flowstone rib, and move left foot out left to a small dark nubbin. Stand up on right foot, right hip in, reach right hand up and over to right-most part of the break above. Swap left foot to where right is, and bring left hand up to hold next to right hand. Sort feet out and move up to better holds. The undercut had very little chalk on it so i'm guessing some people miss it.
Ben Stokes 25 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No where near as fingery as some Battleship Edge or Cuttings routes of a similar grade. Good climbing throughout and don't think the route's in the bag until you actually get to the LO...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arcwelder

Grade: 7b ***
(Lulworth)

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