UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Slumberland Direct but avoid the hard corner by climbing the easier corner on the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follows Slumberland Direct, avoiding the hard corner at 3/4 height by climbing the easier corner to the left.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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