The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile line past a stuck-on ledge to a hard groove. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor, Joff Cook, Damian Cook 10/Jun/1995.
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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steve taylor | 14 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: It's a one move wonder - layback for one move and then the good holds appear. English 6a, but a single move off a ledge, with a bolt by your arse. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's a one move wonder - layback for one move and then the good holds appear. English 6a, but a single move off a ledge, with a bolt by your arse. |
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John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Couldn't do the move into the groove, at a time when I was on-sighting 7 a. Rigged a top rope (by looping out left and back) and still couldn't do it. Is it hard or just reachy? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't do the move into the groove, at a time when I was on-sighting 7 a. Rigged a top rope (by looping out left and back) and still couldn't do it. Is it hard or just reachy? |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)