Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A weird conglomerate crack that is topped off with a committing roof finale. © Rockfax
FA. Nic Hellyer 27/Jun/1996.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dandan | 24 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rusted maillon in bolt before the roof is now freely moving at least, so you can clip your draw in under it to avoid any snapping/bending risk | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rusted maillon in bolt before the roof is now freely moving at least, so you can clip your draw in under it to avoid any snapping/bending risk |
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| chrisxl | 15 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The roof can be a bit crumbly. Broke off a sizeable chunk and went flying. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The roof can be a bit crumbly. Broke off a sizeable chunk and went flying. |
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| trythis | 9 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: hard top | ||
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Show beta
βeta: hard top |
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| AidanWebb | 7 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slightly trying start, moves into a very nice set of moves until the roof, boulder-lovers will enjoy the motion left and then a big haul to the last bolt will leave your hands bloodied (if you go for a fist-jam) but it's well worth it for the extra flair. An underrated exciting little number. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Slightly trying start, moves into a very nice set of moves until the roof, boulder-lovers will enjoy the motion left and then a big haul to the last bolt will leave your hands bloodied (if you go for a fist-jam) but it's well worth it for the extra flair. An underrated exciting little number. |
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| Ewan | 7 Oct, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I lobbed off this route last Saturday when a substantial chunk of the crack above the roof came off in my hand and subsequently hit my belayer. Having lowered to check she was ok, I re-climbed the route to confirm the grade and quality remain unchanged. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I lobbed off this route last Saturday when a substantial chunk of the crack above the roof came off in my hand and subsequently hit my belayer. Having lowered to check she was ok, I re-climbed the route to confirm the grade and quality remain unchanged. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Ocean Drive
Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)