UKC

21m.

Rockfax Description
A particularly good wall climb that, if caught in prime condition, warrants an extra star. Thin moves to a jug at the break are immediately followed by a stretchy move to get established on a stuck-on block. Some great flowstone finishes the pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 03/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Portland, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour., Portland 7a/+, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Javielillo 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, high on grade. Crimpy section at the beginning followed by a committing reachy move to a good hold. The last part after the crux is very nice.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, high on grade. Crimpy section at the beginning followed by a committing reachy move to a good hold. The last part after the crux is very nice.
emilijabl 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A superb line! Lots of varied moves throughout the route and the amazing flowstone finish felt like icing on the cake! A very worthwhile climb and not chossy at all!
βeta?
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βeta: A superb line! Lots of varied moves throughout the route and the amazing flowstone finish felt like icing on the cake! A very worthwhile climb and not chossy at all!
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing sequence of fingery moves up to the jug, where you can have a good rest. One last hardish move to gain the block. 6a from the block to the chain with some amazing and satisfying flowstone climbing
βeta?
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βeta: Amazing sequence of fingery moves up to the jug, where you can have a good rest. One last hardish move to gain the block. 6a from the block to the chain with some amazing and satisfying flowstone climbing
DarrenH 22 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with dirty but not the awful crimps and disappointing finish. It's a worthwhile route although the rock is a little suspect/friable at the top so be carful. Probably only 1 star in current condition but has some nice climbing nonetheless.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree with dirty but not the awful crimps and disappointing finish. It's a worthwhile route although the rock is a little suspect/friable at the top so be carful. Probably only 1 star in current condition but has some nice climbing nonetheless.
richardh 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: dirty snappy start, awful crimp moves and disappointing flowstone finish. not worth leaving the ground for!
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βeta: dirty snappy start, awful crimp moves and disappointing flowstone finish. not worth leaving the ground for!
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor 12 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: New bolt line to the right of Is Vic There is Sanjet Kiss a tough 7a+. The start and finish are still rather dirty but the middle section (crux) is fairly clean and has some good crimpy wall moves.
βeta?
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βeta: New bolt line to the right of Is Vic There is Sanjet Kiss a tough 7a+. The start and finish are still rather dirty but the middle section (crux) is fairly clean and has some good crimpy wall moves.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)
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