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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing with a hard (but short-lived) crux section. Things are much easier above, with possibly the biggest jug in the world at the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 05/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dan Browne 18 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off some massive \'stuck on\' blocks between first and second bolt, thankfully no one was under me. Proceed with caution and helmets!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off some massive 'stuck on' blocks between first and second bolt, thankfully no one was under me. Proceed with caution and helmets!
Davros the Psyched 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, best to lower off the adjacent anchors. Enjoyable middle section then a tough crux sequence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, best to lower off the adjacent anchors. Enjoyable middle section then a tough crux sequence.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking on Sunshine

Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend South)

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