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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
Breach the overhang via a powerful boulder problem using a mono and two finger pocket sequence. The upper wall leads to a much easier finish via a magnificent tufa groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Breach the roof via a Brutally Powerful boulder problem revolving around a Mono and Two finger pocket sequence using the reinforced hold and tiny features above.
The upper wall leads to a much easier finish via the Magnificent Tufa groove requiring delicate footwork and a huge span for success.

James Pymn 07/Jun/2021.

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Portland

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gates of Greyskull

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Lulworth)

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