UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

23m.

Rockfax Description
Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall. © Rockfax

FA. Helen Heanes 04/Sep/1997.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon , Portland scheming , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 20 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fierce pull over the roof, but a very delicate rockover are quite memorable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fierce pull over the roof, but a very delicate rockover are quite memorable
Alun 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worth doing for the balancy crux, however the rest of the route is merely okay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth doing for the balancy crux, however the rest of the route is merely okay.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a balancy crux and a lower wall that might leave you fishing for holds...
Show beta
βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a balancy crux and a lower wall that might leave you fishing for holds...
AlexD 20 Jul, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Go left when you get to the blank looking slab or you'll end up standing on a small ledge without any decent handholds and will have to do a very precarious step left around a smooth bulge before you can clip the next bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Go left when you get to the blank looking slab or you'll end up standing on a small ledge without any decent handholds and will have to do a very precarious step left around a smooth bulge before you can clip the next bolt.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trad Free World

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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