Rockfax Description
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below a shallow corner. Climb the rib just left of the corner to gain the wall proper and easier climbing. Follow the wall to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a final leaning headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 7.11.92 07/Nov/1992

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ICAS Climbing Club, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Hidden 01/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Anna Maykova 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great route but it was a bit scary for a short person like me. Bolts are 3 to 4 meteres apart all the way.

with Ian
Ian MK 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

After Anna put the draws in.

with Anna
Wendy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/16 Lead β

A good varied route and a nice warm up.

Curly Rich 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

One rest in the middle. Felt good, happy with that.

with gmc
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead
cdpuk 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Mooney, Rob Scarisbrick
Alasdair88 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Very greasy early in the day. Best climbed as long after high tide as possible.

with heallan
TomJ 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Tough at the end of the day! Found this much more sustained than the watchman. Clearly a classic!

with Trisha
Hidden 15/Sep/16 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 Lead
Tomas P 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
chris_woodsy 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
littleluke 23/Jul/16 Lead
Dean177 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ana_B
patrickcd 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Hannah
hfotheri 26/Jun/16 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
brian watson 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Great pitch

with Mike
Pete Scott 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
dbrooks 27/May/16 Lead

Perfect end to the day, enjoyed it more this time, gotta be one of the best routes on Portland

Hidden 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Careful of the nesting birds.

Edward Kwong 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Good warm up, though was put off by aggressive nesting bird to the left...

Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/16 -
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
andy south devon 17/Apr/16 Lead β
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Good stuff, tricky entering the crack.

with Emily
Emily 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't make much of this, hard and scary.

with Nick
Glyn 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Amy UT 12/Apr/16 Lead β
with Glyn
ollie_e 14/Mar/16 Lead β

Very good.

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with ollie_e
Hidden ??/2016 -
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR O/S

Nice climb, nothing to hard.

tash 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Baking hot but still a great route :-)

with Chris T
elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
JackMac 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Definitely more pumpy than Stalkers Zone.

with Dan 85
Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best 6b in the UK? Amazing line, great rock, really "out there" at the top.

samparsons 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Emmie
FlavioL1989 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
James_L88 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf

There is a seagull nest on the adjacent line - got swooped at by seagull at about 3/4 height and backed off. Brilliant climbing up to that point though!

with Debbie Hoskins, Karl Gregory
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Ben Russell 27/May/15 Lead O/S
tash 16/May/15 Lead dog

Was tired and got scared in the groove, but amazing climbing - I'll be back!

with ali k
philhaigh 12/May/15 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
td72 ?/May/15 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Steph Roberts 19/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Rob Gates, Sam
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
ReubenS1990 ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Montecore 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Ray
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Top section was soaking

with Dr Dave
kingborris ??/2015 -
roberts1234567890 04/Oct/14 Lead
nath_casper 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eric Pieuchot
Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Aaron.Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Graham Giles
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
conorcussell 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One of the est 6bs ive done

brices 25/May/14 Lead O/S


with Llinos, Gav
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR O/S
JackMac 04/May/14 Lead RP
with Dan 85
Dan 85 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Nick Russell 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

6a+ in the CC guide, felt pretty stiff! After a tricky start, some really great climbing on highly textured rock that was more reminiscent of Pembroke than elsewhere in Portland. Doesn't seem to have had much traffic recently judging by the plant life in the crack.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
gg4419 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S

If it was any colder this would have been an ice route with the amount of water on it, lovely climb though.

with Justin
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead β
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 20/Sep/13 TR dog
Graham Westbrook 16/Sep/13 Lead β
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
adamjeffs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR dog
Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Marti999 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
nataliehaigh 01/Jun/13 2nd dnf
with Mike Gubbins, Phil Haigh
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead O/S
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
dan gibson 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 02/Sep/12 Lead dog

Not good conditions. Bottom crack very greasy. Took two goes to workout the move up from second bolt. Then on next go was so tired at the top I missed a foot placement on the crack and could not hang on any longer - not used to 30m routes. Will RP next time.

Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Helen Gibson 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Julie, dan
Julie Carroll 23/Aug/12 Lead
with Helen Gibson, Dan Gibson
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very good.

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becca
Dibdawg 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 30/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex Norman 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead RP
yarrow 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mark C
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead O/S
josh_smith_90 20/May/12 2nd
will black ?/May/12 Lead β
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt_read 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route....sustained with rest's in places just when you need them! First 6B lead outdoors!

Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tommyads ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
julesmckim 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Quite sustained, damp at start

with dave lewis, Mickie Streule
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Sarah Pentelow
catt 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

Good, pumpy, exciting. Bit too exciting on the day.

with Hazel
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 30/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with rupe
Rupey 30/Sep/11 TR dog
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead β
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt
clipskipper 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Was a little damp, which made the start a bit threatening, and the whole thing quite pumpy

with Dave A
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
alan rosier 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Misha 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb but again felt hard for the grade. Great name!

with Phil
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with misha
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with CC meet
Abi Chard 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR RP
Tomar 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Allan Watson 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with maxpie
Alex More 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Slovac
La benya 15/May/10 Lead O/S
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead RP
philhaigh 26/Apr/10 Lead dog
duncan 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jan Zapal
tommytuffa 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with tomar
Tomar 17/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go

with Tom
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Dandan82 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Taylor
steve taylor 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
Hidden 20/Aug/09 TR rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Solo O/S
mynameisjen 16/Aug/09 Lead β
w.pettet-smith 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

upper grey slab absolutely brilliant. first route of the day and felt quite scary.

Ceridwen 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Luke d 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

so good

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead rpt
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dog
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead rpt
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead β
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
Dave Rumney 11/Oct/08 -
with Sean Roberts
silhouette 27/Sep/08 Lead β
with Crimponite123
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

a very unstylish ascent. must try harder.

with Matt
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Shona H ??/2008 TR
with Mark Brown
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
simonf 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
theloringharvey ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Partridge
steve taylor 28/Apr/07 Lead
with ouzo john
bigie bob 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Oliver Sherman 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Raine, John Eales
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
chris sm 16/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 TR β
Hidden ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead β
Hidden 08/Sep/02 Lead
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Andy Nicholson ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with JR
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dog

Took a 30-footer when I was so pumped I couldn't hold on, but my belayer was too interested in topping up his tan!

with James Dunlop
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
shoulders 10/Oct/99 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis, dai
Kevster 21/Jun/99 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Galley
Hidden 26/Mar/99 Lead
sadams 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with KM
Neil R 30/Mar/97 2nd
with Richard W
phardman 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 10/Jun/96 Lead
with Bruce
Mike Owen 02/Jun/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Roget 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
ukb shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -

Approx date

43 users have this on their wishlist
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set