UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below a shallow corner. Climb the rib just left of the corner to gain the wall proper and easier climbing. Follow the wall to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a final leaning headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 7.11.92 07/Nov/1992

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, ICAS Climbing Club, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland sub 6b, Portland, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Spanish crew 2018.


ClimberDateStyle
poeter210 16/Jun Lead rpt
riff156 16/Jun Lead β
Hidden 16/Jun Lead O/S
Chloe Clear 09/Jun TR β
StrongDan 09/Jun Lead
N0tBiggieSmalls 09/Jun Lead O/S
RangerMcFreindly 09/Jun Lead O/S

Great root, good climbing all the way to the chains!

with Levey, Simone Lang, StrongDan
Dexter JW 02/Jun Lead O/S
with dbrooks
dbrooks 02/Jun Lead rpt
Wayne.Gaudin 20/May Lead O/S

Felt lovely

kazoinks 20/May Lead O/S

Cracking route and worthy of the 3 stars. Can't remember much of the climb and was the warmup. recommended.

with Ramsey
Matt77 12/May Lead O/S
with Shane
David Dickinson 07/May Lead O/S

Really nice, glad to have managed it with no skin and totally knackered. Great end to John's birthday weekend. Will definitely get on this again

with dryvita
Andre Clarke 07/May TR dog
jon_gill1 17/Feb Lead O/S
EllieWoods 17/Feb Lead β
tsyrett ??/2018 Lead rpt

forgot how nice this line is

mathesar 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Spice start I seem to remember

danJBA 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 02/Sep/17 Lead β
with Daniel Abbot
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead RP
Lilypopskeal 16/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Most enjoyable climb of the day

fennerz 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jocelyn
jsmcfarland 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Sachi
GrahamGiles 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Had a blast on this one. Just pure jug hauling with a short lived crux at the top. This is what a 6b is supposed to feel like!

Q.Estelles 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
S.Kew 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Fakey Rocks 12/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Just a little harder than Stalkers. Only a couple of bolts r a little run out, but only around 3m., but on easier ground, eg 3-4, 4-5? still.. could b scary if near yr limit. Not sure about going left of rib at start b2, looks harder, went straight up then traversed left.

with S.Kew
rachelvlc 08/Jul/17 Lead
littleluke 08/Jul/17 Lead
Owen Davies 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Tommy Harris 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant! as everything and in such an amazing location, first bolt needs replacing as shifting from wall a little, and also pretty run to the second bolt but the climbing is brilliant!

AJM 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
Julian Prieto 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Kevster 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Gavdee1
kennythescot 03/Jun/17 Lead β
with Gav A
Gavdee1 03/Jun/17 2nd
with Kevster
emmafizzle 03/Jun/17 Lead β
artmal 20/May/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
RadekNowak 13/May/17 Lead O/S
tsyrett 07/May/17 Lead β
Hidden 05/May/17 Lead O/S
TomatoPro 19/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Awesome jug haul! Sailed up this on a crisp morning. Really enjoyable climbing

penny.orr 16/Apr/17 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

I thought this was overrated compared to Stalker's Zone, maybe easier too.That said, the first couple of bolts are an off-putting distance apart.

etrillaud 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Paul Baller 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Julian Greaves
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Hayley loves climbing 13/Mar/17 Lead β
Mark Stevenson 13/Mar/17 Lead rpt
JackMac 13/Mar/17 Lead rpt
katy_abra 13/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Anna Maykova 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great route but it was a bit scary for a short person like me. Bolts are 3 to 4 meteres apart all the way.

with Ian MK
Ian MK 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S

After Anna put the draws in.

Wendy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/16 Lead β

A good varied route and a nice warm up.

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead
TomJ 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Tough at the end of the day! Found this much more sustained than the watchman. Clearly a classic!

with Trisha
RagingPuffin 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Very greasy early in the day. Best climbed as long after high tide as possible.

with heallan
cdpuk 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Mooney, RobScarisbrick
Hidden 15/Sep/16 TR rpt
Mark Stevenson 15/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Max Streeton
nimajneb 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 Lead
Tomas P 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
chris_woodsy 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Widda
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead
joese7en 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
littleluke 23/Jul/16 Lead
Dean177 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ana_B
patrickcd 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Hannah
hfotheri 26/Jun/16 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
brian watson 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Great pitch

with Mike
Pete Scott 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
dbrooks 27/May/16 Lead

Perfect end to the day, enjoyed it more this time, gotta be one of the best routes on Portland

Hidden 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Careful of the nesting birds.

Edward Kwong 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Good warm up, though was put off by aggressive nesting bird to the left...

ella.thorne5 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/16 -
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead β
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Good stuff, tricky entering the crack.

with Emily
Emily 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't make much of this, hard and scary.

Amy UT 12/Apr/16 Lead β
with Glyn
Glyn 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy UT
Caspian Johnson 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with ollie_e
ollie_e 14/Mar/16 Lead β

Very good.

Hidden ??/2016 -
Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson, Katsmiff
Katsmiff 05/Sep/15 TR O/S

Nice climb, nothing to hard.

elliptic 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tash K.
tash 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Baking hot but still a great route :-)

with Chris T
JackMac 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Definitely more pumpy than Stalkers Zone.

with Dan 85
Luke Owens 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best 6b in the UK? Amazing line, great rock, really "out there" at the top.

samparsons 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with robinge
tash 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with ali k
MarcinK 11/Jul/15 TR dnf
with Mathias, Pavlina B
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
James_L88 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf

There is a seagull nest on the adjacent line - got swooped at by seagull at about 3/4 height and backed off. Brilliant climbing up to that point though!

with Debbie Hoskins, UnkArl
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tash 16/May/15 Lead dog

Was tired and got scared in the groove, but amazing climbing - I'll be back!

with ali k
philhaigh 12/May/15 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
Hidden 10/May/15 TR dog
td72 ?/May/15 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Steph Roberts 19/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Rob Gates, sam.sam.sam.ferguson
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead
Whipinator ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ReubenS1990 ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Montecore 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Ray
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Top section was soaking

kingborris ??/2015 -
roberts1234567890 04/Oct/14 Lead
nath_casper 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with msyea
Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Aaron.Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Graham Giles
Vince 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eric Pieuchot
Qisheng Xie 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One of the est 6bs ive done

brices 25/May/14 Lead O/S

nice

Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR O/S
Dan 85 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with JackMac
JackMac 04/May/14 Lead RP
with Dan 85
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Nick Russell 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

6a+ in the CC guide, felt pretty stiff! After a tricky start, some really great climbing on highly textured rock that was more reminiscent of Pembroke than elsewhere in Portland. Doesn't seem to have had much traffic recently judging by the plant life in the crack.

gg4419 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S

If it was any colder this would have been an ice route with the amount of water on it, lovely climb though.

LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 20/Sep/13 TR dog
Graham Westbrook 16/Sep/13 Lead β
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with yellow
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/13 TR dog
Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Marti999 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 01/Jun/13 2nd dnf
with Mike Gubbins, philhaigh
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead O/S
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
dan gibson 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 02/Sep/12 Lead dog

Not good conditions. Bottom crack very greasy. Took two goes to workout the move up from second bolt. Then on next go was so tired at the top I missed a foot placement on the crack and could not hang on any longer - not used to 30m routes. Will RP next time.

with Bisset
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Julie, dan
dan gibson 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Julie Carroll 23/Aug/12 Lead
with Helen Gibson, Dan Gibson
CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very good.

Dibdawg 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
Jaime Mitchell 30/Jun/12 2nd dog
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex N-R 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead RP
yarrow 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mark C
josh_smith_90 20/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S
will black ?/May/12 Lead β
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt_read 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route....sustained with rest's in places just when you need them! First 6B lead outdoors!

paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, matt_read
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
Tommyads ??/2012 -
julesmckim 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Quite sustained, damp at start

with dave lewis, GeoMike
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, LiL Saz
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
catt 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

Good, pumpy, exciting. Bit too exciting on the day.

with Cyan
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 30/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Rupey
Rupey 30/Sep/11 TR dog
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead β
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt
clipskipper 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Was a little damp, which made the start a bit threatening, and the whole thing quite pumpy

with Dave A
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Misha
Misha 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb but again felt hard for the grade. Great name!

Daniel Wicks 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with CC meet
AlexD 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR RP
Tomar 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jay81
Hidden 18/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Allan Watson 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with maxpie
Alex More 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Slovac
La benya 15/May/10 Lead O/S
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead RP
philhaigh 26/Apr/10 Lead dog
duncan 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jan Zapal
Tomar 17/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go

tommytuffa 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tomar
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Dandan82 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Lard
trev_f 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Taylor
steve taylor 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
Hidden 20/Aug/09 TR rpt
mynameisjen 16/Aug/09 Lead β
Jonny_86 16/Aug/09 Solo O/S
with Jen Killeen
w.pettet-smith 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

upper grey slab absolutely brilliant. first route of the day and felt quite scary.

Ceridwen 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Luke d 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

so good

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead rpt
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dog
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead rpt
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead β
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Dave Rumney 11/Oct/08 -
with Sean Roberts
silhouette 27/Sep/08 Lead β
with Crimponite123
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

a very unstylish ascent. must try harder.

Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Shona H ??/2008 TR
with Mark Brown
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead rpt
robyn1 ??/2008 -
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
Hidden 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
simonf 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
theloringharvey ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Partridge
steve taylor 28/Apr/07 Lead
with ouzo john
bigie bob 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Oliver Sherman 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Raine, John Eales
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
chris sm 16/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 TR β
Hidden ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead β
steveb2006 08/Sep/02 Lead

Also Grez - all lead, Paul first

with Paul E
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
duncan 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phillipe
Andy Nicholson ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with JR
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dog

Took a 30-footer when I was so pumped I couldn't hold on, but my belayer was too interested in topping up his tan!

with James Dunlop
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
shoulders 10/Oct/99 Lead
with marric, sharpie, pete lewis, dai
Kevster 21/Jun/99 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Galley
steveb2006 26/Mar/99 Lead
with Neville Contractor
sadams 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with karin
Neil R 30/Mar/97 2nd
with Richard W
phardman 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 10/Jun/96 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden ??/1996 -
Mike Owen 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Roget 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
UKB and BMC Shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -

Approx date

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set