Rockfax Description
An eye-catching frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © Rockfax
FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987.
Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Cool Names , Portland Olympian , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Blacknor South Sport Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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TradRat | 10 May |
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βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover. | βeta? | |
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βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover. |
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John_Beesley | 9 May |
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βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes? | βeta? | |
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βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes? |
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J1_TOV | 7 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Gipping | ||
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βeta: Gipping |
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gemmapig | 30 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct. | ||
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βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct. |
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Monk | 29 May, 2007 |
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βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route. | ||
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βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route. |
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Jus | 5 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt? | ||
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βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt? |
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Adam Lincoln | 29 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start. | ||
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βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start. |
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Alun | 7 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux! | βeta? | |
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βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux! |
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Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend South)