UKC Logbook - 'Medusa Falls'

15m.

Rockfax Description
An eye-catching frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Cool Names , Portland Olympian , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Blacknor South Sport Climbs , Seven 7a routes in a day , Sportland 2025 , 3* Portland Sport 2021

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User	Date		Notes
P Natl	19 Nov, 2024	Show βeta βeta: There are clearly two distinct lines, and it would be useful for the next guidebook/UKC description to acknowledge that -- as it's the case with 'The Cutting Edge', 'Cocteau Phenomena', 'Lifeline', etc. The direct version (left line of bolts) is much harder and more technical, closer to 7a+ and deserving of 3 stars/top 50 status. Staying right is an ok 1-star route with a similar style to 'To Wish the Impossible', probably only low-end 6c+ (easier than e.g. 'Turned to Stone'). Polish does not matter much.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There are clearly two distinct lines, and it would be useful for the next guidebook/UKC description to acknowledge that -- as it's the case with 'The Cutting Edge', 'Cocteau Phenomena', 'Lifeline', etc. The direct version (left line of bolts) is much harder and more technical, closer to 7a+ and deserving of 3 stars/top 50 status. Staying right is an ok 1-star route with a similar style to 'To Wish the Impossible', probably only low-end 6c+ (easier than e.g. 'Turned to Stone'). Polish does not matter much.
Iloverealrock	31 Oct, 2024	Show βeta βeta: start is hardest, with the bumps up the crimps, and the 2/3 moves after that being the crux sequence
Show beta βeta: start is hardest, with the bumps up the crimps, and the 2/3 moves after that being the crux sequence
salexc	22 Aug, 2024	Show βeta βeta: There is one line in Rockfax and one line in UKC, so there's one line and it's 7a. I've heard the OG line was right of the bolts anyway so the new bolts just make it a bit easier to protect (which in any case isn't a consideration in French grading). Also, stuff has clearly snapped off the route over the years so I don't think it should be considered easier now than it was 20 years ago. (FWIW I think staying right past bolt 3 & 4 is harder than going left and using the tufas; moving from right to left around bolt 3 is probably the best beta but it's not how I did it.) Just my 0.02. ??
Show beta βeta: There is one line in Rockfax and one line in UKC, so there's one line and it's 7a. I've heard the OG line was right of the bolts anyway so the new bolts just make it a bit easier to protect (which in any case isn't a consideration in French grading). Also, stuff has clearly snapped off the route over the years so I don't think it should be considered easier now than it was 20 years ago. (FWIW I think staying right past bolt 3 & 4 is harder than going left and using the tufas; moving from right to left around bolt 3 is probably the best beta but it's not how I did it.) Just my 0.02. ??
TradRat	10 May, 2024	Show βeta βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover.
John_Beesley	9 May, 2024	Show βeta βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes?
J1_TOV	7 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Gipping
Show beta βeta: Gipping
gemmapig	30 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Show beta βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Monk	29 May, 2007	Show βeta βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
Show beta βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
JessClmbr	5 Feb, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Show beta βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Adam Lincoln	29 Aug, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Show beta βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Alun	7 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
Ben Stokes	19 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible