UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

23m.

Rockfax Description
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Portland, Dorset , Spanish crew 2018 , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Climbs , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Pyramid (2024)

Feedback

User Date Notes
abrooks 5 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Confusing with all the double bolts…kept thinking it was over early
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Confusing with all the double bolts…kept thinking it was over early
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, 'specially the top section. Great finishing jugs too. The bottom section is quite hard if you don't spy the sidepull flake out left, like me!
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, 'specially the top section. Great finishing jugs too. The bottom section is quite hard if you don't spy the sidepull flake out left, like me!
Adam Lincoln 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very good route. One stiff pull low down and a ramble to the top. Good first 6c+ i reckon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good route. One stiff pull low down and a ramble to the top. Good first 6c+ i reckon.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 104
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nothing but the Groove

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Coastguard North)

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