UKC

Access Banned

In June 2022 signage was installed by the landowner indicating that they do not wish crags on the west side of the dale (Griff's, Black & Deckout, etc.) to be climbed on.

Initially promising negotiations ultimately failed to reach a positive outcome. As such it remains the case that the owner does not grant access to west/lower Blackwell Dale. Any climber choosing to visit is therefore trespassing and should politely leave without complaint if asked to do so.

The signage appeared only after a big increase in visits, mostly to Griff's Buttress. Factors contributing to the situation included inconsiderate parking, large groups, damage to the fence/wall and the formation of an approach path which attracted non climbers to cross onto the land (presumably looking to walk down into Cheedale).

12m.

Rockfax Description
Desperate crimpy climbing (f7B start) with a dynamic move to gain an often-wet pocket. Continue up the flake-line of the previous route to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard 8b, but originally graded 8a - it's essentially two 7B boulders on top of each other. Rumour has it that Patta only graded it 8a to annoy another climber whose project it was. It was climbed without several chipped holds that were later filled in. The name is a reference to the climbers that were hired to evict tree protesters when the Newbury bypass was being built.

Richard Patterson (climbed without the 2 chipped holds which have since been filled in) 17/Jun/1998.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

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Voting
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Monsterosity

Grade: 8b ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)

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