40m.
Rockfax Description
Lacks line but not excitement! Climb the left-hand side of the steep wall with difficulty then power up the crack to the cave stance. Move right a short distance along the traverse of Wage War but where this heads right, pull up and gain the rising flake above. Traverse horizontally right from here to reach easier ground on the right. © Rockfax
FA. J.Gandy, P.Oxley Aug/1992.
Ticklists
Theo's Pembroke ticklist , Lines that inspire - E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| duncan b | 6 May |
Show βeta
βeta: As others have said the topos in the CC and wired guide for the first bit getting to the cave are wrong, suggestion you break out from springboard earlier than is actually the case. The 2009 Rockfax is correct for this bit. The guides also differ for the bit after this with the CC and wired topos suggesting you finish as for wage war. Whilst the Rockfax Topo suggests you climb up and traverse right on a higher line above wage war. Confusingly however the 2009 Rockfax description (which seems a bit muddled) suggests you take the lower breakline (as per CC and wired) and the higher line is taken by wage war. Although the 2022 Rockfax description (and current UKC description) is consistent with the Rockfax photo topo suggesting you take the higher line. This does seem like the more independent finish but who knows? The thread described in the CC guide isn't there, but the peg is. There's also loads of natural gear. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: As others have said the topos in the CC and wired guide for the first bit getting to the cave are wrong, suggestion you break out from springboard earlier than is actually the case. The 2009 Rockfax is correct for this bit. The guides also differ for the bit after this with the CC and wired topos suggesting you finish as for wage war. Whilst the Rockfax Topo suggests you climb up and traverse right on a higher line above wage war. Confusingly however the 2009 Rockfax description (which seems a bit muddled) suggests you take the lower breakline (as per CC and wired) and the higher line is taken by wage war. Although the 2022 Rockfax description (and current UKC description) is consistent with the Rockfax photo topo suggesting you take the higher line. This does seem like the more independent finish but who knows? The thread described in the CC guide isn't there, but the peg is. There's also loads of natural gear. |
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Guidebooks for Bosherston Head
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Route of Interest
Hannah
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lydstep Cavern Bay)