UKC

39m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating and you need a confident second. From the base of the corner, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tiptoe delicately right until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Pembroke ticket , All the climbs UKC said I should do South Wales TM , 35 By 35

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 10 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best HVSs anywhere. Great rock, wild position and good gear. Started at high tide from ledges adjacent to the interesting bit.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the best HVSs anywhere. Great rock, wild position and good gear. Started at high tide from ledges adjacent to the interesting bit.
samreeve 9 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions.
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out.
βeta?
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βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out.
Owen 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.

Logged Ascents

250 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bohemian Bubblebath

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)

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