Rockfax Description
A brilliant route which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating and you need a confident second. From the base of the corner, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tiptoe delicately right until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997.
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Pembroke ticket , All the climbs UKC said I should do South Wales TM , 35 By 35
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 10 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: One of the best HVSs anywhere. Great rock, wild position and good gear. Started at high tide from ledges adjacent to the interesting bit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best HVSs anywhere. Great rock, wild position and good gear. Started at high tide from ledges adjacent to the interesting bit. |
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samreeve | 9 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions. |
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John Alcock | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out. |
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Owen | 10 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry. |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)