A brilliant find which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating though and you need a confident second. To get to the start, abseil down the right (looking out) side of the headland to a ledge at the base of a huge curving corner. From here, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tip toe delicately right across this until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997.