Rockfax Description
A brilliant find which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating though and you need a confident second. To get to the start, abseil down the right (looking out) side of the headland to a ledge at the base of a huge curving corner. From here, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tip toe delicately right across this until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997.
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Pembroke ticket
User | Date | Notes | ||
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samreeve | 9 Jun |
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βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing on the slab, shame it ended. A bit of a spicy, damp grovel to get to it though! Let down by the finish, but still three stars with amazing positions. |
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John Alcock | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out. |
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Owen | 10 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry. |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)