Rockfax Description
Bosigran's most celebrated Extreme and one of its most exciting. Start by scrambling up a corner and crack to a stance under the leaning light brown wall.
1) 5b, 26m. Follow a line of surprisingly good holds out rightwards across the impressive wall to a small spike. Continue up a crack, past a horizontal crack with what looks like a pancake of rock sandwiched in it, to a traverse-line slightly higher. Strenuous moves rightwards lead immediately into more technical ground that gains a cramped slab under an overhang. Move right and pull through the overhang to a belay just above.
2) 5b, 26m. Make an exposed traverse left along the lip of the overhang to meet a diagonal break that leads more easily back rightwards to the top of the crag. © Rockfax
Hard Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Extreme 2018 , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Hard Rock 2020 , Pre-departure , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Larry Benoy | 26 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Flake right at the bottom of P1 is sounding worryingly loose and is right above belay platform, care needed | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flake right at the bottom of P1 is sounding worryingly loose and is right above belay platform, care needed |
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Daniel Schubert | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Number 3 wall nut protects the treverse on p2 ver well. Pitch 1 belay is bomber, high big blue cam plus red cam. | ||
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βeta: Number 3 wall nut protects the treverse on p2 ver well. Pitch 1 belay is bomber, high big blue cam plus red cam. |
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Graeme Hammond | 31 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: The Climbers Club guide shows the line of P2 not traversing the lip of the overhang as per the route description "along the on the lip of the overhang" where the rock is clean and chalked rock (+ rockfax line) but on the slab above the belay. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The Climbers Club guide shows the line of P2 not traversing the lip of the overhang as per the route description "along the on the lip of the overhang" where the rock is clean and chalked rock (+ rockfax line) but on the slab above the belay. |
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Rachael Ellis | 17 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Led pitch 2, fell off under the roof. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led pitch 2, fell off under the roof. |
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richgac | 3 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Good small cams in the overlap before / above the flexible flake | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good small cams in the overlap before / above the flexible flake |
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danieljames123 | 25 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The flake at the very start of the route is very much detached and moves if pulled on. Use it carefully and avoid putting pro behind it | βeta? | |
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βeta: The flake at the very start of the route is very much detached and moves if pulled on. Use it carefully and avoid putting pro behind it |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)