UKC

32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular and rewarding climb that consists of two totally contrasting pitches; the first technical and the second super steep. Start on a high flat ledge left of Black Slab.
1) 4c, 24m. Pull onto the slab. Climb rightwards to its edge and move up to where it meets the steep wall above. Make technical moves up and right to a black vein and follow this more easily, moving right after 5m, to a belay below the overhanging corner at the right-hand end of the large overhang.
2) 5a, 8m. Climb the overhanging corner, perplexing but well-protected, and pull over the lip on massive holds to easier ground. A wild pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Kernow

Feedback

User Date Notes
Salvo1 31 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great this. Where is the hold. Oh yes there it is after faffing. Andy said go right lol. Top pitch wad sopping so we scrambled off!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great this. Where is the hold. Oh yes there it is after faffing. Andy said go right lol. Top pitch wad sopping so we scrambled off!!
Nikkikhamerton 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great first pitch, the second pitch requires some thought and flexibility.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great first pitch, the second pitch requires some thought and flexibility.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 115
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wreckin' and Divin'

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Compass Point (Bude))

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