A popular and rewarding climb that consists of two totally contrasting pitches; the first technical and the second super steep. Start on a high flat ledge left of Black Slab.1) 4c, 24m. Pull onto the slab. Climb rightwards to its edge and move up to where it meets the steep wall above. Make technical moves up and right to a black vein and follow this more easily, moving right after 5m, to a belay below the overhanging corner at the right-hand end of the large overhang.2) 5a, 8m. Climb the overhanging corner, perplexing but well-protected, and pull over the lip on massive holds to easier ground. A wild pitch. © Rockfax
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Compass Point (Bude))
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