A popular extreme which has a particularly attractive first pitch that is often climbed in its own right. Start below a diagonal black seam at a finger ledge above a low horizontal break.
1) 5b, 26m. Move up to, and stand on the finger ledge. Follow the thin line leftwards to a small overhang and continue up the technical crack to an easing below the steep wall above. Follow the diagonal line rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
1a) The Chicken Run, E2 5b. A good but bolder variation breaks out right from below the small overhang and tackles the wide depression directly to easier ground and the belay.
2) 11m. Continue up easily to a good ledge and belay below the huge upper corner.
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner all the way to the capping roofs and exit right via some very spectacular moves. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Five b Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Pre-departure , Cornwall , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Kernow
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