UKC

65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular extreme which has a particularly attractive first pitch that is often climbed in its own right. Start below a diagonal black seam at a finger ledge above a low horizontal break.
1) 5b, 26m. Move up to, and stand on the finger ledge. Follow the thin line leftwards to a small overhang and continue up the technical crack to an easing below the steep wall above. Follow the diagonal line rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
1a) The Chicken Run, E2 5b. A good but bolder variation breaks out right from below the small overhang and tackles the wide depression directly to easier ground and the belay.
2) 11m. Continue up easily to a good ledge and belay below the huge upper corner.
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner all the way to the capping roofs and exit right via some very spectacular moves. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Five b Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Pre-departure , Cornwall , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Kernow

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is not to be missed and possibly the crux for some.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is not to be missed and possibly the crux for some.
Tall Oak 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: What a contrast. Very cool route. Feel like you are on top of the world in the cave before the top section crux. Hold on and go for the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a contrast. Very cool route. Feel like you are on top of the world in the cave before the top section crux. Hold on and go for the traverse.

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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suicide Wall

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Bosigran)

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