UKC

51m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Disjointed but technically one of the more testing VSs at Bosigran and also slightly runout on its main pitch. Start at the base of the low-angled corner groove.
1) 4a, 11m. Move up the corner until a flake-crack on the right wall can be gained. Climb the flake-crack to a mantleshelf next to a thorny bush and a good belay below a pinnacle just above.
2) 4b, 12m. Chimney up the left side of the pinnacle and from its top move left to a narrow slanting corner. Technical moves up this quickly lead to a large belay ledge.
3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam.
4) 4c, 13m. Climb up to the base of the black seam. Hard moves followed by a short runout are rewarded with a rest out to the left before some awkward moves up and right gain a restricted belay in a corner under a roof.
5) 4b, 9m. Move up the corner and pass the roof with dificulty before a black vein on the left can be used to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Diamond in the Rough , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Kernow

Feedback

User Date Notes
Salvo1 10 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Have been eyeing this for a while. I led the 1st two pitches combined taking the line to the left after the awkward mantle instead of bridging behind the pedestal. Good gear throughout & some nice climbing. We moved the belay to under pitch 3 which Elliot lead in good style. Some airy moves but yet again good protection & good climbing. Great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have been eyeing this for a while. I led the 1st two pitches combined taking the line to the left after the awkward mantle instead of bridging behind the pedestal. Good gear throughout & some nice climbing. We moved the belay to under pitch 3 which Elliot lead in good style. Some airy moves but yet again good protection & good climbing. Great!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Little Brown Jug

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Bosigran)

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