Rockfax Description
Disjointed but technically one of the more testing VSs at Bosigran, and also slightly runout on its main pitch. Start at the base of the low-angled corner groove as for Clob.
1) 4a, 11m. Move up the corner until a flake crack on the right wall can be gained. Climb the flake crack to a mantelshelf next to a thorny bush and a good belay below a pinnacle just above.
2) 4b, 12m. Chimney up the left side of the pinnacle and from its top move left to a narrow slanting corner. Technical moves up this lead quickly to a large belay ledge.
3) 6m. Walk left along a grassy ledge to below a black seam.
4) 4c, 13m. Climb up to the base of the black seam. Hard moves followed by a short run-out are rewarded with a rest out to the left before some awkward moves up and right gain a restricted belay in a corner under a roof.
5) 4b, 9m. Move up the corner and pass the roof with difficulty before a black vein on the left can be used to finish. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , Diamond in the Rough , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Kernow , Routes for MCI , Cornwall - October 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 17 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Link up with Anvil. Lead P3 with Conor on P1. Very cool ending with a \'shoulder bar\'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Link up with Anvil. Lead P3 with Conor on P1. Very cool ending with a 'shoulder bar'. |
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Salvo1 | 10 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Have been eyeing this for a while. I led the 1st two pitches combined taking the line to the left after the awkward mantle instead of bridging behind the pedestal. Good gear throughout & some nice climbing. We moved the belay to under pitch 3 which Elliot lead in good style. Some airy moves but yet again good protection & good climbing. Great! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Have been eyeing this for a while. I led the 1st two pitches combined taking the line to the left after the awkward mantle instead of bridging behind the pedestal. Good gear throughout & some nice climbing. We moved the belay to under pitch 3 which Elliot lead in good style. Some airy moves but yet again good protection & good climbing. Great! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bosigran)