UKC

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing and very exposed. Start at a cave just west of a huge undercut buttress.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner above the cave. At the faultline, move right to belay on a thread around an ammonite.
2) 4c, 15m. Head up leftwards to a crack in the roof and pull around in a sensational position to continuation cracks. These lead to a ledge and the exit corner as for Nassty Spider. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew, P.A.Bell 29/Aug/1964.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Dorset weekender , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

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User Date Notes
Will789 17 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature.
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βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature.
kevin stephens 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 66
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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