The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
A wandering but very useful couple of pitches on good rock and with good protection. Start as for Old Faithful.
1) 4c, 14m. Move up to a thin crack/groove on the right and climb it with difficulty to the faultline and belay.
2) 4c, 22m. Move right around the arete and climb a tough crack to a ledge. Traverse back left for 6m and move up to join and finish as for Old Faithful. © Rockfax
FA. T.Baker, R.J.Crewe 13/Sep/1975.
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