Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The first pitch is also gritstonesque, and is good in its own right. Start 2m west of Old Faithful.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the steep wall on jugs past good cam-slots halfway. Then follow rounded breaks to a large ledge and belay at the faultline.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the crack 1m left of the Old Faithful corner, and pull over the roof - hard. Climb straight up to finish, passing the small roof at the top on the right - take care with some doubtful blocks here. © Rockfax
FA. N.Coe, T.Dunsby 09/Dec/1989.
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The Adventures of Portland Bill
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)